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Technical Bulletin
Common Embroidery Defects
Bunching at Corners |
Embroidery Too Thick |
Fabric Damage |
Fabric Grin Through or Gapping |
Missed Trim |
Poor Coverage / Poor Stitch Density |
Poor Hooping |
Poor Registration |
Poor Stitch Balance
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This technical bulletin
describes common embroidery quality defects and solutions for preventing
these defects. |
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Bunching
at Corners |
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DESCRIPTION:
Where the corners of lettering or shapes are not sharp and crisp but are
bunched up or distorted. Usually caused by too much thread in the
corners due to poor digitizing. This includes: 1) Not
using appropriate stitch selection , 2) Not
using “Short” stitches in corner, and 3) Poor
stitch balance – thread too loose. |
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SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS:
Generally, can be corrected
by digitizing properly: 1) Using appropriate stitch selection, and 2)
Using “short” stitch cornering, and 3) Correcting stitch
balance. |
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Embroidery too Thick |
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DESCRIPTION: Where the embroidery is too thick and
uncomfortable. Can be caused by too high of a stitch density or not using
the correct backing for the application.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected
by: 1) Digitizing properly (Using appropriate stitch selection, using fewer stitches,
and using “short” stitches on corners); 2) Making sure stitch is balanced properly;
3) Using smaller thread size; and 4) Using the correct backing (Using
correct type and weight).
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Fabric
Damage - Needle Holes |
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DESCRIPTION: Where
the fabric is damaged around the corners of the embroidery. Caused by: 1)
Not using the correct type and size of needle; 2) Putting too many
stitches in the same location; and 3) Not tearing tearaway backing
properly,
allowing the fabric to be damaged as the stitches are pulled out. |
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected
by: 1) Digitizing properly; 2) Reducing the stitch count in the corners;
3) Using the correct type and size of needle; and 3) Using a ball point needle as small as possible. |
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Missed
Trims |
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DESCRIPTION:
Where threads are left on the embroidery pattern between images or lettering.
Thread trims are digitized when changing colors and when moving from one
location to another using “jump” stitches.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS:
Generally, can be corrected by:
1) Digitizing properly (Using appropriate number of trims, using appropriate
tie-off stitches, or replacing trimming knives when necessary); and 2)
Hand trimming missed trims using trimming snips. |

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Poor
Coverage - Poor Stitch Density |
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DESCRIPTION: Where the stitch density is not thick enough and
you can see through the embroidery stitching.
SUGGESTED
SOLUTIONS:
Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (Using appropriate stitch selection, using more stitches,
and using underlay stitches); and 2) Using appropriate backing & topping. |
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Poor
Hooping |
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DESCRIPTION:
Where the fabric around the embroidery looks
distorted and does not lay flat.
SOLUTIONS:
Generally, can be corrected by: 1) Using appropriate backing &
topping, 2) Making sure sewing operators hoop the garment
properly without stretching the fabric too much prior to putting it in
the hoop, and 3) Pressing or steaming hoop marks.
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Poor Registration |
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DESCRIPTION: Where
the stitches and design elements do not line up correctly.
The embroidery sewing process sews different colors at different
times. If the fabric shifts while one color is being sewn, then
poor registration will occur when the next color is sewn.
Sometimes it is difficult to tell the difference between poor
registration, poor digitizing, and fabric “grin-through” or
“gapping” due to thread “pull”.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS:
Generally
can be corrected by: 1) Digitizing properly (using appropriate underlay
stitches); and 2) Hooping
properly (using correct backing to prevent excessive material flagging). |
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Poor
Stitch Balance |
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DESCRIPTION:
where white bobbin thread shows on the topside of the embroidery.
Ideally, the needle thread should be held on the underside of the
seam, and not ever be pulled up to the topside. Proper stitch balance
can be checked on the underneath or backing side of the embroidery by
looking for 2/3 needle thread to 1/3 bobbin thread on Satin stitches.
SUGGESTED SOLUTIONS: Generally, can be corrected
by: 1) Using
quality embroidery needle thread, 2) Using
quality pre-wound bobbins, and 3) Setting
machine thread tensions correctly. |

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Other
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Related
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Technical Information
Links
to technical resources that answer your sewing problem questions... |
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